Plaited hat lining and method and apparatus for making the same



A. KURTZ .[une 10, 1930.

PLAITED HAT LINING AND METHOD AND APPARATUS EOR MAKING THE SAME Filed April 28/1927 3 Sheets-Sheet 1 INVENTOR. flLF/PED K(.//-? 72 BY ATTORNEY WITNESSES JunelO, 1930. v A. KURTZ 1,763,468-

PLAITED HAT LINI NG AND METHOD AND APPARATUS FOR MAKING THE SAME Filed April 28, 1927 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 $4M BY 77 ATTORNEY A. KURTZ "June 10, 1930.

PLAITE'D HAT LINING AND METHOD AND APPARATUS FOR MAKING THE SAME s Sheets-Sheet 3 Filed April 28! 1927 INVENTOR HAP/QED u/-? 72 BY ATTORN EY WITNESSES Patented June 10, 1930 roma ne star PATENT .nrirCrE ALFREDJKURTZ, OF BROOKLYN, NEW YORK IE'LAITED HAT LINING' AND METHOD vAND .APPABAT'US MAKING- THE SAME.

Application filed s rings,

The present invention is concerned with the provision of a reinforced plaited hatlining, particularly to a plaited lining in which a stiffening filler piece is employed to connect the side, crown andtip ofthe lining.

This reiiiforcing means may be in the nature of a covered or uncovered cord, a tape, guimpe, soutache, or. other filling.

The filler serves a double pu pose; both to 1 support andstrengthen the lining so'that it will be maintained in substantially stovepipe shape, and also. to materially enhancethe ornamental appearance of. the lining, and give it a highly tailored effect.

WVhile certain of the advantages of using a cord or other filler piece, havebeen recognized, particularly where no bucliram or similar reinforcing means is used at the top of the lining, no attempt has heretofore been made to embody cords or the like in plaited linings.

The present invention is concerned not only with the plaited lining itself, but with the provision of a novel method of makingthe linings and a novel form of apparatus by which the method may be carried out.

In so far as the methodand apparatus is concerned, it may be noted that while they find their preferred embodiments in the hat lining art, they are also adapted to generally analogous uses in connection with the manufacture of hat millinery, novelties, dresses, aprons, petticoats, curtains,leather goods, pocketbooks, bags, etc.

improved hat lining, a simple type of sewing machinefor manufacturing the lining and a distinctly novel method of manufacture.

This application is a continuation in part of my co-pending application Serial ilfitfi filed July 16, 1925.

With the above noted and other objects in view, the invention consists in certain novel features of construction and combinations and arrangements of parts, as will be more fully hereinafter set forth and pointed out in the claims. The invention may be more fully understood from the following description in. connection with the accompanying drawings, wherein- Objects of the invention areto provide an L 1927. Serial no. 187,309.

F ig. 1 is a transverse sectional view through a sewing machine constituting a preferred form of the apparatus. i i

Fig. 2 is a sectional plan viewofthemachine.

Fig.3 is a view in end elevationbfthe machine. v 4: is an enlargedfragmentary elevational detail showing the presser foot,,plaiting blade and filler guide'just as the, plaiting blade is approaching the end of its plaiting stroke. i

Fig. 5 is a transverse sectional. detail on the line 5--5 of Fig. 4L. i Fig. 6 is a view generally, similar to Fig. 5, but showing the relative positions of the tip and side crown in a completed lining.

Fig. 7 is a viewgenerally S lJTlilELI lZO Fig. 4, but showing the use ofa tapeguide. i

Fig. 8 is a fragmentary sectional viewapproximately onthe line 88, oflFig. 7 illustratingythe completed lining .with the tape filler.

Fig; 9 is a perspective view .ofthe tape guide.

.Fig. 10 is a View similar to Figs. land 7, but illustratinga modified form of. guide in place for an uncovered cord.

Fig. 11 is a View similar to Fig. 8, but showinga fragment of a completed lining in which the uncovered cord is used.

Fig. 12 is a sectional plan. View similar to Fig. 2, but showing the use of a guard which prevents the plaited side crown from working back under the needle during the process of sewing the circular lining. I

Fig. 13 is a perspective view ofamodified form ofunitary attachment embodying both a filler guide and guard.

Fig. 14: isa perspective viewof a completed lining. i

Referring to the drawings 1 have first described, the novel fornrof apparatus in the nature of a plaiting and sewing machine which is involved. This machine includes a base lO, a conventional. arm. 11 and head 12 carrying a needle 18 and presser foot 14;, the material to ,besewed passing across the work plate 15 and underthe :presser foot.

As is customary in the art, a driving shaft 16 is provided which operates, the needle and its associated mechanism in any conventional or convenient manner (not illustrated). A rearward extension of the base carries an upstanding frame plate 17 formed with a forward projection 18 disposed between the arm 11 and shaft 16 and terminating at the forward side of the machine.

J ournalled in this extension is a rock shaft 19 carrying a depending arcuate slotted arm 20 and a dependin arm 21 at the lower end of which the plaitlng blade 22 is mounted. The slot 20 of the arm 20 provides means for adjustably connecting one end of a link 23.

to the arm 20. This link may be adjustably connected to the arm by the use of a screw 24 and associated clamping nut 25 or any equivalent mechanism. The other end of the link 23 is eccentrically'connected as at 26 to a wheel 27 journalled as at 28 inthe rear upper portion of the frame 17. Wheel 27 may be driven through any suitable train of speed reducing gears 29, 30, 31 from a pinion 32 on the drive shaft 16. Preferably the wheel 27 link 23 and associated gear train is protected by the use of a removable hood portion 33 detachably secured to the frame plate 17.

In order to properly guide a cord or other filler into place between'a pairof pieces of material which are being sewed together, it is a necessary that the guide terminate very close to the needle of the machine. Conventional types of plaiting machines therefore, render plaiter blade 22 to assume its lowest position the immediate impossible the use of a filler guide due to the shape of the presser foot of the machine, and proximity of the swinging plaiting blade, the free end of which swings up over the presser foot atthe completion of each plaiting stroke. 6

In accordance with the present invention I have overcome this difficulty by causing the at the end of the plaitingv stroke and by using an extremely short presser foot 14. The'end 14 of the presser foot whichhas the needle opening therein,is fully as long and in most instances longer, than the presser foot itself, and 14 beingturned sharply upwardly at approximately a 45 angle to provide room for a filler guide 35 carried on a bar 36 detachably and adjustably securedv as at 37 to the work plate 15. I

Preferably the guide member 35 is formed as an integral part of its separating bar 36 and the particular shape of the guide may be varied in numerous ways in accordance with the particular nature of the filling which is to be fed under the needle. In Figs. 4 'to 6,

I haveused the numeral 40 to designate the material to be plaited and to constitute the side crown portion of the lining. The linin tip is indicated at 41 and a cord 42 with its tapecovering 43 is fed'through the guide 35 between the members 40 and 41. At each 'guide means 50 is provided for stroke of the plaiting blade 22, a plait is producel in the edge of the material 40, and the line of stitching serves to connect the plaited edge of the member 40, the two sides of the folded tape 43, and the edge of the tip 41. With the illustrated form of filler, the line of stitching does not pass through the cord and the cord is confined within the tubular housing defined by its covering strip 43. If desired, by adjusting guide 35 the line of stitching may also pass through the cord.

It will be noted that the arrangement of the presser foot and the motion of the plaiting-knife is such, that ample room is provided for mounting the guide very close to the needle so that no slack can be produced in the tip and filler, is a circular one, it will be evident that some guard means should be provided for preventing the plaited side crown from working back under the needle. For the sake of clarity of illustration, suchguide means has been omitted in Figs. '1 to 11 of the drawings, and is shown in Figs. 12 and 13. The guide preferably, although not necessarily is formed as a part of the bar 36 and may simply comprise a rigid loop 36' integral with the end of the bar, and of sulficient height to block movement of a transversely plaited section of the side crown under the needle. If desired, the member36 might be in the nature of a solid plate, or might assume various other forms, the looped arrangement being preferred principally because of its lightness in weight. Theguide is of course disposed high enough above the work plate to permitthe free passage of the material being sewed thereunder, this necessary spacing being provided of course by the proper shape of the bar 36. The guard member might be entirely separate from the bar and. attached through other suitable means to the machine.

The length of the plaiting stroke may be readily adjusted by adjusting the link 23 along theslot 20, and a screw provides for proper angular adjustment of the plaiting blade.

In Fig. 7 I have illustrated a modification of the invention in which a difierent form of guiding a strip of tape 51. In this instance, the tape alone constitutes the filler and is sewed directly to the side, crown and tip by a line of stitching 52. The intermediate portion of the strip being folded upon itself, projects inwardly as at 53 defining an ornamental stiffening bead at the juncture of the tip and side crown. Fig. 9 is a perspective view showg' ing-the guide with its supporting bar 54 having slots 55 therein, so that it may be ad justably attached to the work plate.

In Fig. 10 I have shown a modified form of guide 56 through which an uncovered cord is fed. In this instance the cord itself is sewed directly to the plaited side crown and tip by a line of stitching 57 illustrated in Fig. 11.

It is believed that not only the construction of the lining itself, but the method of manufacture, will be apparent from the foregoing description of the machine and its operation. All of the completed crowns embody the ornamental appearance and stiffness afforded by the plaiting, as well as being suitably retained in their desired Stovepipe shape by the filler. In so far as the method is concerned, Ibelieve myself to be the first to devise a method of manufacturing hat linings in which any means is provided for properly guiding a tip, side crown and filler,

and at the same time plaiting the side crown. Obviously various changes and alterations might be made in the general form and arrangement of parts described without departing from the invention. Hence I do not wish to limit myself to the details set forth,

but shall consider myself at liberty to make such changes and alterations as fairly fall within the spirit and scope of the appended claims.

I claim:

1. A sewing and plaiting machine of the class described including a work plate, needle, presser foot and plaiting blade, the presser foot being relatively short and a filler guide for delivering a filler piece under the upturned end of the presser foot between the edges of a pair of pieces of fabric to be sewed together, means for swinging the plaiting blade to plait the lowermost fabric, the plaiting blade being so actuated that its work engaging end reaches substantially its lowermost position at the end of its plaiting stroke, whereby the plaiter blade may pass under the guide, and means disposed laterally of the presser foot and spaced above the work plate for blocking the movement of previously plaited and sewed fabric under the needle when making an approximately circular seam.

2. An attachment for plaiting and sewing 5Q machines comprising a bar slotted at one end for detachable adjustable engagement with the work plate of the machine, a filler guide member carried by the bar and adapted to be disposed closely adjacent the needle of the machine, the bar being offset to hold the filler guide above the work plate to provide clearance for a plaiting blade, and a blocker carried by the free end of the bar also spaced above the work plate and adapted to prevent previously plaited fabric from working under the needle when a curved seam is being made. 1

ALFRED KURTZ. 

